Golan Heights: Gamla, El Rom, Valley of Tears, Majdal Shams, Kfar Haruv

September 27, 2011

We awoke this a.m. to a beautiful morning! I was enjoying a cup of herb tea on the porch when one of the kibbutzin young women delivered a sumptuous breakfast in a basket -- omelets, oranges, yogurt, a plate of veggies, a plate of humus (I think), cheeses, etc., orange nectar, and an array of breads, all of which was plenty to share between breakfast and supper!

We then set off via our bus for the Gamla Nature Reserve and a light morning hike. Just after learning a bit about griffon vultures, we saw a few soaring over our heads as we walked the path to an overlook for viewing the site of one of the oldest synagogue in the ancient city of Gamla. The name "gamla" comes from the Hebrew word for camel—gamal—because the ancient fortress was on a mountain shaped remarkably like a camel’s hump. Dating from the Second Temple period, the city became famous at the beginning of the Great Revolt (67 CE) for its battle against the Romans. Nurit was explaining the history of old Gamla when Edith pushed a button to view the ruins through a telescope and simultaneously activated an audio narration which was quite good. Edith apologized, but Nurit was "no, no, this is quite good." Edith (traveling with husband Dick, with 60 years of marriage) has a big heart, a long life, and many stories. One story she told was of bartering with a seller over something she wanted to buy in multiple quantities for grand kids. the guy wanted five (of whatever currency) for each. She got the price down to two (currency) each for ten items, but walked away because she still thought the price too high. He ran after her to the bus and said "one dollar" each! Edith tells many colorful stories with humor and insight. Note: Read Josephus re Gamla.

The squill (in English, "white flower") is the national flower of Israel.

Next, we stopped at Kibbutz El Rom, located next to the battleground of the Valley of the Tear, one of the defining moments of the Yom Kippur War. At the Kibbutz El Rom we learned about the struggle of the Israelis against the Syrian Army during the tank battle there in 1973. A twenty-five minute film at El-Rom kibbutz, introduced by a young Israeli woman who lives at the kibbutz, told the story of the six-day 1973 battles in the Golan against invading the Syrian army, in the words of those who survived. About 148 Israeli troops in 52 tanks went up against great odds (number?) and miraculously won, thus preventing Syria from taking over the rest of Golan and (from Israeli perspective) the rest of Israel. Seventy-Six Israelis (about half) survived. We were all greatly moved by the film (sensitively done, with subtitles created at El-Rom kibbutz which specializes in film production) and a poem shown at the memorial (in English and Hebrew).

We then paused at the Valley of the Tear Memorial (or Valley of Tears), which overlooks the battleground, Mount Hermon, and biblical Caesarea Philippi (Banias today).  Battalion members who died after 1973 are also remembered here.

 We continued on to a Majdal Shams, a Druze village, where we enjoyed a home-hosted lunch with Fassia, matriarch of a Druze family and learned about their unique culture and traditions. The Druze are an Arab religious community that opted out of mainstream Arab nationalism, and whose members have served in the Israeli Defense Forces. In the past, the Druze have seemed radical for their belief in equality between men and women, the abolition of slavery, and separation of church and state.

It was very interesting first to get oriented before entering Fassia's home. We walked through the village, by shops with fine art and jewelry made by residents. Nurit said the Druze are very hard working and highly educated. We stopped and talked with a young man who is among several reviving the craft/art of weaving to make prayer shawls or wall hangings, etc., using manual looms. We then walked a hill where Nurit showed us the border with Syria (with walls, fences, and watch towers), not far away at all from this village of Majdal Shams within view of Mount Hermon in the far northeast corner of the Golan Heights.

Fassia met us at the door to her home and, as is the custom, we removed our shoes and entered where we were greeted and offered a cool beverage as we sat on floor cushions. Fassia is 60 years old, with five grown children all married, some with children. Her husband is a retired school principal who now owns a plot of land to farm and raise a few goats. Fassia has little formal education but is literate and obviously highly intelligent. With her children grown and gone, and her husband busy with his "farm," she decided to have her own "business" as an Overseas Adventure Travel home hostess. She has had many guests and obviously very much enjoys helpiing us understand her people and family, and making us feel at home in her home.

Following, we visited a winery in Katzrin, for a wine tasting and a look at books and gifts. Sadly, we did not get to tour the winery.

When we returned to Kfar Haruv, our driver Amitai took us on a tour in our bus, with a look at a Syrian bunker and a look at Kfar Ein Gev below the bluff next to the Sea of Galilee.

We then returned to Peace Vista to rest for the afternoon and evening. Dinner on our own was the other half of what we got for breakfast!

Mount Tabor across the Sea of Galilee from Peace Vista