Hebron ->Bedouin camp in Judean desert ->Efrat -> Bethlehem

October 10, 2011

Sanctuary of Abraham Mosque

From the itinerary: Journey to Hebron and visit the Tomb of the Patriarchs, Judaism’s second-most sacred site, and also a sacred site for Muslims and Christians. We entered (through a checkpoint, with A’be) to the northwestern part of the building that included the Sanctuary of Abraham or Ibrahimi Mosque where the women (Evelyn and me had to wear cowls). There A’be explained the site, the history, how it came to be in its present use (part for Muslims and Christians, and the other section for Jews and Christians, with a barrier in between). There we saw the cenotaphs of Abraham and Sarah.

A'be (left), Evelyn and Bev

Cave of the Patriarchs, south view

Add caption

Cenotaph of Sarah

 After our time there, we exited at the checkpoint while those entering seemed to have been given the 3d degree, and then U.N. observers were in an intense discussion with the soldiers controlling the checkpoint.

A’be then said he could not go with us to the Jewish side of the Cave of the Patriarchs, but told us how to find our way and get through the checkpoint controlled by Israel soldiers. We did that to enter from the southeastern side. All a bit touchy, it seems. See http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cave_of_the_Patriarchs for History, Israel control, and Legends; even though this is a Wikipedia site, the information is still helpful, especially if one looks up other sources to get some comparison.

Cave of Machpelah (Hebrew: מערת המכפלה

  From Hebron we stopped (in Bethlehem, I think) to visit another archaeological site the name of which I don’t know or remember. Like other Palestinian sites, it is in an early stage of development, and quite interesting because of that. Its several features include a large well/cistern in one corner of the site, and also remains of a Roman-Byzantine church.

 Following the “dig” site, we made a stop in a local pottery/ceramic factory and store to learn how they make their wares, and then to view the products. Steve and I bought a few items, as did Evelyn. (Add the store name if I can find it, perhaps from the sales slip.)

 

Patriarch, Bedouin family, Judean Desert

Oh, what joy we had next in traveling over the diverse landscape of the Judean Desert, once again enjoying the colors and contours of the sand hills. 

Our midday and afternoon adventure was to a lunch and visit with a Bedouin family (in the Judean desert), a visit most interesting and rich. A’be interpreted (translated) beautifully and kept us engaged in conversation with the family’s patriarch (name?). We met with the patriarch in the visiting tent and learned that he had his own tent for himself, his wife, and his children (the young ones), and learned that he prefers his life in the desert over the option to settle in a town. He explained that he loves his life of stars, open landscape, freedom of movement, family, and absence of modern culture’s many forms of communication. Still, his children and grandchildren go to school, and they sell goat products to villagers, and go to town to fill the water tank. 

A'be giving candy to the children

Bedouin children and grandchildren of Patriarch

The women of the family do not enter the visiting tent, so A’be encouraged Evelyn and me to go visit with the women and girls. We did that and, even with language challenges, we enjoyed talking with them. Steve came over when it was time to leave, but took pictures which pleased the girls, and I think also the two women one of whom is the patriarch’s second wife (his first wife died) and the other is (I think) either the wife of one of his son’s or one of his elder daughters. The young girls enjoyed asking us questions through occasional English words or phrases and hand signals. 

Ardie's home in Efrat

    We drove back the same way we came, through miles of Judean desert, then visited Efrat, a settlement of Jewish colons, 7.5 mi south of Jerusalem, between Bethlehem and Hebron. Actually, A’be (guide) and Lutfi (bus driver) took us to a spot to meet up with Ardie Goldstein (originally from Chicago) who drove us to his home in his town (settlement) of Efrat where he shared his view of Jewish history and Zionism. We had some (few) opportunities to speak up but only by interjecting and interrupting. Evelyn carried the conversation for Steve and me, it seems, bless her. We stayed longer than intended, thus making us a little late in reconnecting with A’be and Lufti, although all was well in the end.

 Finally, we returned to Bethlehem (I think) to meet A’be’s family. He and Anita (his German-born wife of one year) live with his parents (as is customary in Palestinian culture), so we met Anita (who is as lovely as A’be said), his father (name?) who is a retired teacher of history, and his mother. They served us fruit (grapes, plums, etc.) from their own trees; A'be showed us the duplex house that his brothers built, showed the addition to the main house he built for he and Anita, and then showed where he will build a separate house for he and Anita. A’be really enjoyed introducing us to his family; this was a real treat for us to see how they live, and to see A’be’s joy in playing with his young niece. He is a very passionate man – about family, Palestine, history, his work (as a young boy he wanted to be a tour guide), and his own family (with Anita).

 After some time we returned to the Intercontinental Bethlehem hotel where Evelyn, Steve, and I freshened up and then met A’be and Anita for dinner. Then headed to pack and sleep a bit before an early-morning wake up call.