Steve&Bev Middle East Discovery 2011: Petra

September 21, 2011

Got an early start in order to be in old Petra before crowds and while the air is cool. Jafar, the archaeologist, is absolutely thorough and patiently and clearly repeats information, like an excellent teacher. All this while he has not felt well. All six of us (Pat, George, Jeanne, Jim, Steve, Bev) plus Jafar walked the entire way to the Treasury and beyond.

Map of Petra

Jafar explained Nabataean culture, their early icons which were faceless (we saw examples), then later ones that have eyes, then nose. Then tombs with “stairs to heaven,” urns, and other symbols such as three vertical lines alternating with circles, and spirals. Nabataean art and symbols were influenced by Greek architectural detail.


Part of Water system

WOW! As we approached the Siq (a word meaning “canyon”), an opening that is more than the entrance into the canyon, Jafar explained that the Siq was likely created by shifting of teutonic plates (Rift Valley) and then erosion. WOW! and double WOW! When we approached the Treasury, Jafar lined us up holding hands, facing the canyon wall, and then we stepped slowly sideways to a very drawn-out count of twenty, to create suspense for arriving at the Treasury, the most photographed part of Petra.

Nearing the Treasury #1


Nearing the Treasury #3

Nearing the Treasury #2

Close-up of Treasury: Note Greek influences

WOW! and double WOW! When we approached the Treasury, Jafar lined us up holding hands, facing the canyon wall, and then we stepped slowly sideways to a very drawn-out count of twenty, to create suspense for arriving at the Treasury, the most photographed part of Petra.

Note the "stairways to heaven" on the largest facade.

Our group became very cohesive. Everyone is curious, asks questions, and contributes information and comparisons with previous travels and reading. George and Pat have traveled very extensively with OAT and other organizations. Jeanne and Jim have also traveled a lot, including inter-generational adventures with grandchildren, both internationally and within the U.S. George knows a lot about oil lamps, from research and writing he did for the Reading (Pennsylvania) Public Museum, resulting in a book titled Classical Digs: Archeology, Reading Public Museum and Gustav Oberlaender. While reading his email one day in the Harmony Hotel (Jerusalem), George excitedly shared that he just learned that the book was officially released and the October 19^th program announced!

After enjoying the Treasury, the Great Temple, and other structures, we stopped for lunch (buffet). Then we forged ahead and decided to go all the way to the Monastery. Four of us walked, George decided to explore the museum (near the lunch room) on his own, and Pat (on “Flower”) and Jafar (on another donkey) decided to ride. Pat will never forget this experience, and we will never forget that her bravery and our own endurance – especially George with his bad knee (no cartilage) and his up-beat attitude, smile, curiosity and questioning. Steve and I used trekking poles for this part (the path to the Monastery), and Jeanne occasionally needed Jim’s strong hand and arm to get up worn steps in steep places. We'll also remember George's strength and courage, walking backward down hills and steps because of his bad knee (no cartilage), and his up-beat attitude, smile, curiosity and questioning.

The Monastery

The Monastery (close up): See stairway to heaven.

See circles with vertical bars between them

The Monastery is carved in the side of a mountain

A view from the "End of the World," a climb beyond the Monastery

So, the "End"? No, of course! Rejoining Pat and Jafar at the Monastery, we headed back the way we came, but this time downhill, Pat and Jafar on their donkeys, with Pat holding on while shifting her weight back. She was very grateful for the young man who guided and controlled Flower.

We were again greeted by Bedouins selling postcards, trinkets, scarves, sand art in bottles, books, jewelry, as well as services. Often the same people talked with us, hinting that we promised to look and buy on the way down. [Here I remind Readers of my earlier notes describing Gerasa and my three sadnesses.] The Bedouins depend on tourism for income from selling goods (everything imaginable re Petra, desert, Bedouin’s life and dress), and selling services (buggy, horse, donkey, and camel rides). Many, many times we said “la shukran” (no, thank you). Many adults, both men and women, young and old. Women with babies. And many young boys (who should have been in school). By the end of the day (we were in Petra all day), I was able to talk with one of two young boys – “Do you go to school?” “Why not today?” “What do you learn?” One boy understood and responded in English until my questions became too probing.