Middle East (Jordan, Israel, Palestine)

Middle East (Jordan, Israel, Palestine)
clockwise from upper left: Caesarea, Petra, Jerash, Israel, Petra, Temple Mount, Bedouin children

Saturday, October 29, 2011

Mount of Olives, Garden of Gethsemane, Valley of Jehosaphat, the Old City from the ground

September 29, 2011 (Rosh Hashana)


Rise and shine! We selected from a full and appetizing breakfast buffet in the Harmony Hotel.

Amitai drove us to the Mount of Olives for the amazing and overwhelming panoramic view (and photos) of the Old City of Jerusalem, accompanied by Nurit's detailed descriptions and explanations of what we were seeing. Nurit gave us a good amount of time to appreciate the amazingly beautiful and peaceful Church of All Nations within the Garden of Gethsemane, and then guided some of us on a walk in the Valley of Jehosaphat to Absalom's Tomb (which very probably was not his tomb) and the Tomb of Zechariah (that may be the monument of the Tomb of Bnei Hezir, and in Christian tradition the Tomb of St. James, but there are varying opinions, so read about sites 39, 40, and 41 in the Jerusalem Archaeology Park website). As you can imagine, dear reader, a visit in the Mount of Olives includes peaceful and quiet time in and viewing the Jewish and Muslim cemeteries (all outside the Old City), the Russian Church of St. Mary Magdalene (distant view only), and the Church of St. Stephen's (Orthodox).

Jewish cemetery
Church of St. Stephen's
St. Mary Magdalene


Olive tree, Garden of Gethsemane






Church of All Nations




busy Muslim Quart
Finally, the moment we all anticipated: Entering the Old City at St. Stephen's Gate (also called Lion's Gate), we found ourselves in the Muslim Quarter, bustling and crowded with all imaginable morning activities in a city where many live, work, shop, and go to school. The Old City of Jerusalem surprised me in many ways today -- especially vehicles on the streets just inside St. Stephen's gate. But of course, people live there! What a day of sensory overload!
Via Dolorosa and Ecce Homo Arch
Church of the Condemnation
Fourth Station
Nurit had us enter this gate in order to experience the Via Dolorosa. Although we did not stop at all of the stations, we did see or experience the Ecce Homo Arch, Convent of the Sisters of Zion, Franciscan Church of the Condemnation, Armenian Hospice (from outside only), Our Lady of the Spasm, the path around St. Helen Coptic Church (station #9), the Church of the Holy Sepulchre (including the Greek Orthodox Church, Ethiopian altar/chapel, Armenian Church, Catholic Church), the Monastery of the Flagellation, the decorated house of someone who made the Haj), the Icon Chapel (station #7), Golgotha, Stone of Unction, Sacristy and Sepulchre, Armenian Church, place where Helen found the three crosses of Jesus and the two thieves).

Rock of Golgotha



Rotunda, Dome of Holy Sepulcher Church
Stone of Unction
Excited and overwhelmed, we stopped in Muristan Square for a lunch of falafel and shawarma sandwiches, after which we entered the Christian Quarter where we saw the Lutheran Church of the Redeemer and experienced the diverse sights, sounds, and aromas in the Arab-Souk. Steve and I especially savored the many colors and products in the Spice & Incense store on David Street, and brought home beautiful photographs (by Steve) and containers of powdered saffron, ground sumac, and zater. I only wish we had purchased larger quantities!


We ambled respectfully in the Jewish Quarter during Rosh Hashana, hearing shofars and seeing families celebrating together, and learning that archaeologists uncovered part of the original Old City wall within the Jewish Quarter. After stopping to relax by Huvra Square and Synagogue that was reconstructed after 1948, Nurit led us further on to spot where we had a profoundly meaningful overview of the Western ("Wailing") Wall and the Temple Mount. 

Viewing still more recent excavations, we continued toward and arrived in Jaffa Gate Square and the restoration of Phasael's Tower. We all gathered here before leaving the Old City for this day, and on to our hotel and excellent conversation during the hotel's happy hour with fine beverages and (mostly) healthy snacks, thus our evening "meal."

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