Jerash (Gerasa), Ajloun, Amman family home visit, and discussion

9/19/11

I don’t remember where I left off, BUT today was very full. Jerash (Gerasa) was everything we expected and more! Maybe 10 times so? Driving north of Amman, we quickly entered hilly country and (in Jordanian terms) more lush vegetation the latter due to water from the Jordan River, a tributary to the Jordan. We saw ranges in the distance as we traveled to Jerash, some forty miles (I think). We knew we had arrived when we saw Hadrian’s Arch in Gerasa, built to welcome the arrival/visit of Emperor Hadrian in 129-130 A.D. 

Our guide for today, Anas, had explained that the Romans chose this location because it (1) was in the spice trade route, (2) was in a valley with good sightings for potential enemies, and (3) had a water supply. Entering Jerash, we drove past Hadrian's Arch and the western entrance to go around the entire working archeological Gerasa site so that we could see how very large it is. That’s what surprised me – its size! And also the variety of structures. 

 

One of its theaters (still used today for festivals) can hold 400-500 spectators.  And the cardo (main drag) is incredibly beautiful and amazing (especially with Steve standing near the columns).

The hippodrome alone could have held 15,000 in Roman times. The latter is today used for races in the style of chariot races, for extra cost, we did not watch one.

Our purpose for being there was to experience the entire site and understand how the people of Gerasa lived based on what has so far been discovered. George, a fellow OAT traveler, said Gerasa is much larger than any of the ancient ruins he and his wife Pat experienced in Italy. The extensive restoration and our guide’s narrative made it possible for us to understand and imagine how the people lived then. Its seems like we saw hundreds of Corinthian columns and their capitals (tops) on the ground and in apparent rubble, but we also saw some that had never fallen and others that had been reconstructed using original limestone blocks and huge cylinders. Repeatedly we were told that extensive damage occurred in 749 A.D. earthquake or earthquakes, which is consistent with what Steve and I read in “Jerusalem” (Karen Armstrong book) in which earthquakes periodically damaged or destroyed the Temple (or Temple area) in Jerusalem.

Back to Gerasa, our first impressions when entering the site saddened me:

1. Ours was the only bus (a small 12-passenger one with six guests, one drive, and one guide) in the parking lot at 9:00 a.m. when usually there would be a lot of full-sized buses. There were cars but even not many of them. Tourism is down because of the “April Spring” of political unrest but has started to pick up a bit.
2. Second sadness: Many people selling their wares aggressively in the market just inside the visitors’ center. We learned to say “la shukran” [no thank you] and shake our heads to indicate “no.”
3. Third sadness: Young boys (NOT girls) who should have been in school but were instead trying to get visitors to buy postcards. We felt harassed but, as with their male elders, we had to say (consistently) “la shukran” and shake our heads, repeatedly. 

I should have said earlier that our regular Jordanian guide Jafar arranged to Anas (female) to fill in for him as his wife was giving birth (nearly one month early) to their fifth child (second son), via cesarean section. Mother and child are doing well, though the baby is premature at 4 lbs. Jafar seems the most worn out by the experience, being anxious and not having any control except to provide emotional support. Jafar expects to join us 9-20-11 (Tuesday) when we have the morning free, and check out by 1:00 p.m. and meet guide(s) and head to lunch in Amman before driving south to Petra (3 hours).

Back to Jerash: Anas our guide for the day was a classmate of Jafar’s at Jordanian University. She and J. explained much of the educational system in Jordan, and what students had to achieve in order to enter University (public) and that J.U. can’t accommodate all who qualify. Many of those and others go to privately owned colleges/universities that are incredibly expensive and often not as high quality as J.U. We learned that English language learning was mandatory for their generation from first grade. Now it is government-required from age four on. Anas’ one child – a son named Cy – is 3 ½ years old and is already learning English from Anas.

In our driving today we passed one of 20+ refugee camps. Ten of these are "official" according to the United Nations Relief and Works Agency for Palestinian Refugees. Both Anas and Jafar had explained that these camps have existed for 10 years since Iraqis fled their homes. These camps are now towns and the residents have full Jordanian rights and responsibilities. The huge numbers 10 years ago are now less; the very rich Iraqis now have Jordanian passports and have invested their wealth in Jordanian business and real estate. Some were able to move elsewhere (U.K., Canada, U.S., etc.), and others returned to Iraqi (by choice, or not). Those who remain have full access to education, and other Jordanian rights and responsibilities.

Driving in northern Jordan was quite educational both by what we observed and what Anas explained and by what conversations our members started with Anas or with each other: Northern Jordan has experienced two consecutive winters with little rain and snowfall, creating drought conditions. Residents have cisterns that are filled once/week so they have to conserve water use throughout the week. The only solution seems to be getting water from South Jordan to the north. The government is in the process of building a water line from the south to the  north. They are now installing the pipes in Amman, which is promising as Anas said that means the project may be completed in a year.

Government – Both Jafar and Anas said that the majority of Jordanians are very pleased with the current king. There are regular peaceful demonstrations. Some people (a minority) would like to have the government change from pure monarchy to constitutional monarchy, but that seems unlikely and not desired by most. The King’s image is everywhere and Jafar shared additional photos of King and his family, and the history of the royal family from Ottoman times to present.

Topics raised by our group of six include:

1.              Status of Jordanian women (Jordan is one of the most liberal of the Middle East countries.)

2.              Muslim women’s choices re head covering, working, education

3.              What is taught in schools (or not)

4.              Access to health care

5.              Israeli-Palestinian situation, and the coming U.N. vote re proposed establishment of a Jordanian state, referencing what we’ve read in books, articles, news, and what conversations we’ve had with Jewish friends in the U.S.

Ah, yes, the day continued with a visit to the Islam Castle Ajloun, on the highest hill/mountain in north Jordan. Built in 1184-1185 A.D., it was a military castle built to protect the area from Crusaders. Views from the top include the Jordanian River valley, and beyond into Israel, Damascus, and more directions. The castle was protected by the mountain location, a dry (waterless) moat, soldiers, and means of communication with other military castles to pass along information regarding invasions, etc. they used smoke signals, carrier pigeons, flags, and sometimes horse relays.

View from top of Ajloun Castle

The drive to and from Ajloun was educational regarding shops, businesses (often car repair places were in the same building with grocery stores and/or restaurants; houses and other buildings under constructions (various stages); much trash/littler along side of roads; olive trees, other orchards and crops; congested traffic along the highway through Ajloun and other cities along the way.

The day (9-19-11) ended with a lovely home visit with a Jordanian Muslim family. The father Nasser is a retired military worker (a printer) who continues work as a civilian printer. Nasser (name) Hassan (father’s name) Soudani (family name) and his wife Hind have two sons ages 24 and 22 both of whom are employed graphic designers and one of whom is (I think) continuing his schooling; and one daughter who is 18 and a senior in high school. We asked about her schooling and she shared her English language workbook with us – as of our 6 travelers 4 were English majors (one a middle school English teacher, one a high school English teacher) and one was an American Studies major who taught English. [(I’ll save descriptions of our fellow Jordanian travelers for another, undated, entry.)]

We had a wonderful visit with our host family, and discovered that both sons and their mother are on facebook; we assumed that the daughter also is, but that the father is not. Nasser, Jim, Jeanne, and I had a very good stand-up conversation in the kitchen that Nasser invited us to see. He rents the 3-bedroom apartment with 2 bathrooms, for $300/month. That seemed low, but Jafar explained that Nasser probably only makes $700/month for salary. We (Nasser, Jim, Jeanne, Bev) also agreed on the importance of people of various cultures and religions getting to know each other, and to realize that we all have the same one God, regardless of religion. It was a good visit!

“Home” by 10:00-10:30 p.m. I couldn't fall asleep until after 2:00 a.m. on 9-20-11, due to four small cups of strong coffee (3) and sweetened mint tea (1). 

Bedouin brewing Arabic coffee with cardamom

Enas translating

On the way “home” to Hotel Larsa Amman, we were amazed that all the stores were open, and traffic was very heavy. Anas said the stores close at 10:00/10:30, and that everyone drives because public transportation is so unreliable.